If you wanted to give a fish a bit of freeline but then meet resistance a few seconds later, you could add a float stop 7-10” above your bullet weight to stop it riding up your line past that point.
Dropshotting is a finesse method for presenting soft plastic lures. This means it is for presenting lures more subtly than you can with other rigs. This is because the dropshot is separate from your lure, so when the rig is fished very slowly with the weight on the bottom, it’s mainly just a single unweighted lure the fish will see. If you’ve done any bait fishing, you will notice the drop shot rig is similar to a paternoster rig, except a snood is rarely used to connect the hook to your leader.
It’s important that you use the right knot when attaching a hook on a dropshot rig. The palomar is the best knot for this purpose.
The dropshot rig is hugely popular for freshwater perch fishing in winter, because it allows you to present lures at low speeds while keeping your lure in the strike zone for the fish. Usually this means your lure is about 1m off the bottom, slowly twitching back to you.
The drop shot rig is useful for winter perch fishing and fishing for wrasse and pollock over rough ground when you want to retrieve very slowly on the bottom but keep your soft plastic off the seabed itself. It’s also useful for covering more ground than you can with a jig head, because they cast better.
When I say slowly, I mean seriously slowly. Some people will turn the handle a couple of times then leave the lure for a 10-30 seconds then repeat all the way back in. It takes patience, but in the winter months when fish are lethargic with their metabolisms slowed, this can be deadly.
One major advantage of this rig is that you can fish with very small lures while still having excellent casting distance and contact with your lure. This is because the lead can be whatever size is best for your rod and the hook size can be whatever size you want for the fish. For perch fishing a 7g dropshot is great, when shorefishing in the sea a 20-50g is more typical. You wouldn’t be able to put a 30g cone weight on a 2” soft lure without interfering with its presentation on a jig head or texas rig for example. All of this means the dropshot rig allows you to search large areas of water with small lures.
Finally, the hook is usually attached directly to your leader rather than on the end of a snood. This means you feel bites immediately.
The Jika rig is similar to the cheb rig in that it is based around a simple split ring. Attached to the split ring is a weedless hook and a drop shot weight. This split ring allows you to change the weight you’re fishing with while still keeping your weight and hook connected so they stay together.
Where the Jika rig differs from most rigs is that the weight is a drop shot weight. This is a long thin cylinder.
Unlike with a regular jig head, it’s possible to fish with larger weights with smaller hooks, to increase your casting distance. Unlike with a texas rig, the weight is not free moving on the line, so bites are more easily detected. This allows you to quickly retrieve fish away from snags. The lure is also more free to move because the hook and weight are not directly connected. This improves the lure’s action.
When you’re fishing vertically in rough ground or directly on the bottom and you don’t want your weight to be free to move up your line. Or, when you want extreme connectivity to the bottom that a cone weight does not achieve.
The unique advantage of the Jika rig is the incredible sensitivity it provides to the bottom. Something about dropshot weights having a small surface area on the bottom seems to mean you feel much more of the ground you’re fishing. On a modern lure rod you can even work out exactly what the ground you’re fishing is covered with. Round weights on a regular jig head don’t send this feedback to the same degree.
Reach for the Jika rig when you want to fish vertically in a tight spot, such as between a gap in lilly pads or down a narrow rocky gulley. Lures will fall vertically and can be jigged up and down with a great presentation. Also reach for a Jika rig for winter finesse fishing on the bottom in the UK.
A spin rig is more of an American term for just using spinners. It’s simply a spinner attached directly to your leader or mainline. A spinner is just a shiny piece of metal with a hook attached that wiggles and shines in the water like a baitfish.
The only thing beginners need to know is that it’s always best for your spinner to not require any additional weight in order to be cast. If your lure is an appropriate weight for your rod and if your rod is appropriate for the ground you’re fishing, you don’t need a lead weight.
This is the most popular rig in the UK. Use the spin rig when you want to cast a long way and fish the whole water column quickly for pelagic species. It’s one of the best lures for mackerel for this reason. Don’t call it the spin rig in the UK though unless you actually are one of our chubby American bros. (God bless America)
Jig heads are weighted hooks that you thread a soft plastic lure onto. They make it possible to change your lure very quickly without retying your rig. There are several types of jig head with different uses, and we will go through each type below. The most common and cheapest jig heads have ‘ball heads’…
Ball head jig heads are well suited for bumping along the bottom as they tend to lean forwards allowing the soft lure to sit ‘ass up’. This means your lure is more visible to fish when on the bottom. A simple ball head jig head is the best choice when you want a cheap general purpose jig head.
Ready Tied Carp RigsThen you have dart jig heads and finesse jig heads, which are both designed to move side to side when twitched to imitate an injured fish. These work well with straight tail lures that have limited actions without a dart jig head. These are used by those practicing LRF fishing or targeting trout or perch on ultra light rods casting under 10g.
Finesse jig heads are useful when you’re fishing ultra light with straight tailed lures and you’re targeting fish that respond well to erratic movements like smelt, herring or summer perch.
There are also level swim heads, which are designed to fall parallel to the surface of the water (rather than nose dive like most jig heads). These often have a cylinder, or bullet shape, similar to the weight on a drop shot rig.
When you’re simply casting and retrieving a lure through the midwater or near the surface and you want the most natural presentation possible. This is because some level swim heads have fish-designed heads that blend into your lures body more naturally than a standard ball weight.
Often if a paddle tail has a head of its own, I will bite that off to replace it with the lead head on the jighead.
There are weedless jig heads, which have weedless hooks to avoid snagging. These are useful for perch fishing anywhere with lots of snags, be they lily pads, reeds or submerged shopping trolleys.
Use weedless jig heads when you’re fishing over snaggy ground near the bottom and don’t want to lose all your tackle. Weedless jig heads are also useful when you want direct contact with your lure and weight at the same time.
Use weedless jig heads when you’re fishing over snaggy ground near the bottom and don’t want to lose all your tackle. Weedless jig heads are also useful when you want direct contact with your lure and weight at the same time.
Neutral buoyancy jig heads are not made from lead but from resin. They cast well but unlike lead sink very slowly. These are useful for suspending lures in the very top section of the water.
Hidden weight jig heads have the weight on the shank of the hook. This means when you rig a soft plastic little or none of the weight is visible.
These are useful for extremely cautious fish in pressured waters when you want a hyper-realistic presentation with no weight visible.
Ned rig jig heads have a short cylinder shape which is designed to make the lure sit ass up on the bottom. This makes your soft plastic look like a fish feeding on the bottom – a very natural presentation. People use these with straight-tail lures like sluggos or senkos. These jig heads also provide superior sensitivity to the bottom than other designs, probably because of the flat face. They have taken the US bass fishing world by storm and are also effective for UK lure fishing.
When you’re dead sticking with a senko and you want your lure to sit proud off the bottom to make it more visible and not just lie flat. Useful in the dead of winter for tough bass fishing days. It would work for wrasse but this level of finesse is never required for them. Useful for winter perch with creature baits.
The Cheb Rig is gaining popularity in the UK as a superior form of weedless jig head. It allows you to change your hook and weight size easily while fishing. This means you can simply carry a few different sized weights and hooks and modify your approach without retying or recliping a whole new rig.
A normal weedless jig head comes with a lead weight welded to the hook. On the Cheb Rig, the weight and hook attach separately. This is useful for advanced lure anglers that wish to fish with larger hooks with tiny weights, or small hooks with heavier weights. It’s pretty hard to find size 2/0 hooks with a 1-2g weight. Or a size 10 hook with a 10g head.
The cheb rig is useful for fishing rough snaggy ground, or when you want to be able to change your hook or weight size quickly when covering different types of ground quickly. It’s a rig for pretty serious anglers, most people are better off with regular weedless jig heads.
The cheb rig has many applications in UK fishing both in saltwater and freshwater. When perch fishing for example in a snaggy canal with ultra light rods and reels, you could use a cheb rig to get a direct contact with your lure that you wouldn’t get with the Texas Rig. The free-running weight on the texas rig can make subtle bites harder to detect.
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